Bahaar

Download PDF version of the pattern

Link to Ravelry page

‘Bahaar’ is a light stole featuring a lace stitch pattern worked over a multiple of 13 stitches and 18 rows.

I used a little more than 2 skeins, or approximately 600 yards of the Cascade 220 Fingering, to knit a 12.5-inch wide and 68-inch long stole (longer than average). A slightly shorter version can be knit using 2 skeins or less.

To make a wider shawl, just cast on more stitches and work 7 or 8 horizontal repeats of the pattern between the garter stitch borders.

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Yarn – I used approx. 2.20 skeins or 600 yards of the Cascade 220 Fingering in the ‘Buff’ colorway.

Needles – A pair of US size 6 (4 mm) needles for knitting; US size 8 (5 mm) needle for casting on loosely (optional)

Notions:

  • 4-5 Stitch markers (if using)
  • Blocking pins / wires
  • Tapestry needle to weave in ends

Gauge (after blocking) – 23 stitches and 28 rows = 4 inches, measured over the Bahaar lace pattern

Finished dimensions – 12.5 inches wide and 68 inches long

Abbreviations:

  • RS – Right side
  • WS – Wrong side
  • YO – yarn over
  • k2tog – Knit 2 together
  • ssk – slip, slip, knit the 2 slipped stitches together
  • (s2, k1, psso) – slip two stitches together as if to knit; knit 1 stitch; pass slipped stitches over the knit stitch (2 stitches decreased)

Bahaar stitch pattern:

  •  Row 1 – *k2, [k2tog, YO] twice, k1, [YO, ssk] twice, k2*; repeat from * to *
  •  Row 2 and all even number / WS rows – purl all stitches
  •  Row 3 – *k1, [k2tog, YO] twice, k3, [YO, ssk] twice, k1*; repeat from * to *
  •  Row 5 – *[k2tog, YO] three times, k1, [YO, ssk] three times*; repeat from * to *
  •  Row 7 – *[k2tog, YO] twice, k5, [YO, ssk] twice*; repeat from * to *
  •  Row 9 – *k2, [YO, ssk] twice, k1, [k2tog, YO] twice, k2*; repeat from * to *
  •  Row 11 – *k3, YO, ssk, YO, (s2, k1, psso), YO, k2tog, YO, k3*; repeat from * to *
  •  Row 13 – *k2, [k2tog, YO] twice, k1, [YO, ssk] twice, k2*; repeat from * to * (same as row 1)
  •  Row 15 – *k1, [k2tog, YO] twice, k3, [YO, ssk] twice, k1*; repeat from * to * (same as row 3)
  •  Row 17 – *k3, YO, ssk, YO, (s2, k1, psso), YO, k2tog, YO, k3*; repeat from * to * (same as row 11)
  •  Row 18 – Purl all stitches

Repeat rows 1 to 18 for pattern.

Bahaar Lace Chart

BahaarChart-21Apr2014

Pattern Instructions:

  • Loosely cast on 73 stitches using the larger needle. I used the long-tail method to cast on.
  • Switch to smaller needles. Knit 7 rows.
  • On row 8 (WS), knit 4 stitches, purl 65 stitches, knit the last 4 stitches.

From this point on, the first and last 4 stitches will always be knit to form a garter stitch border, and the Bahaar stitch pattern will be worked over the center 65 stitches (13 x 5).

Stole body:

  • On row 9 (RS), knit 4 stitches; work row 1 of the Bahaar chart /stitch pattern 5 times (placing stitch markers between every repeat if you want); knit the last 4 stitches.
  • On the next row (WS), knit 4 stitches; purl 65; knit the last 4 stitches (all WS rows are worked this way).

Continue, as above, to knit rows 3 to 18 of the Bahaar pattern, maintaining a garter stitch border throughout.

  • Repeat rows 1 to 18 of the Bahaar stitch pattern a total of twenty-five times, or till the scarf is approx. 2 inches shorter than the length you want.
  • Then knit rows 1 – 12 of the pattern once more (ending with a WS row).

To end:

  • Knit 7 rows
  • Loosely bind off all stitches knitwise (on the WS).

Block to desired measurements. Weave in ends.

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Lataa

Download PDF version of the pattern (original English version)
Download Swedish version (many thanks to Stickaboo for the translation!)

Link to Ravelry page

IMG_8496 IMG_8494 (1280x960)  IMG_8504 (1280x960) IMG_8469 (1280x960) 

This simple lace scarf is knit using a little less than 100 grams, or approximately 400 yards of fingering weight yarn. I’m calling it “Lataa”, which means a ‘vine’ or ‘creeper’ in Hindi, because that’s what it reminds me of! The stitch pattern is worked over a multiple of 13 stitches and 10 rows. You cast on a total of 45 stitches, including 6 border stitches (3 on either side) that are knit on every row, and 39 stitches (13 x 3) in the center that are worked in the lace stitch pattern.

The pattern includes both a chart (on page 3) and written instructions.
This pattern has not been tech edited or tested. If you have any questions, please feel free to send me a personal message on Ravelry, or leave a comment on my blog.

___________________________________________

Yarn – 100 grams or approx. 400 yards of any fingering weight yarn that blocks well (preferably with wool as the primary fiber). I used a little less than one skein of Cascade Heritage (Solids).

Needles – A pair of US size 6 (4 mm) needles for knitting; US size 8 (5 mm) needle for casting on loosely (optional)

Notions:
• 2-3 Stitch markers (if using)
• Blocking pins / wires
• Tapestry needle to weave in ends

Gauge – 19.5 stitches and 28 rows / 4 inches measured over pattern stitch

Finished dimensions – 8.5 inches wide and 60 inches long

Abbreviations:
• RS – Right side
• WS – Wrong side
• YO – yarn over
• k2tog – Knit 2 together
• ssk – slip, slip, knit the 2 slipped stitches together
(s2, k1, psso) – slip two stitches together as if to knit; knit 1 stitch; pass slipped stitches over the knit stitch (2 stitches decreased)

LataaChart

Lataa Stitch Pattern (worked over a multiple of 13 stitches):

• Row 1 (RS) – *[k1, YO, ssk, k1, k2tog, YO] twice, k1*, repeat from * to *
• Row 2 (WS) and all WS rows – Purl all stitches
• Row 3 – *k1, [k2tog, YO] twice, k3, [YO, ssk] twice, k1*, repeat from * to *
• Row 5 – *[k2tog, YO] twice, k5, [YO, ssk] twice*, repeat from * to *
• Row 7 – *k2, [YO, ssk] twice, k1, [k2tog, YO] twice, k2*, repeat from * to *
• Row 9 – *k2, YO, ssk, k1, YO, (s2, k1, psso), YO, k1, k2tog, YO, k2*, repeat from * to *
• Row 10 – Purl all stitches

Repeat rows 1 to 10 for pattern.

Pattern Instructions:
(See chart on page 3 of the pattern)

• Cast on 45 stitches loosely using the larger needle.
• Switch to the smaller needles and knit 7 rows
• On row 8 (WS), knit 3 stitches, purl 39 stitches, knit the last 3 stitches.

Scarf body:

Next row (RS) – Knit 3 stitches; work row 1 of the Lataa chart / stitch pattern 3 times; knit the last 3 stitches
(You can separate out the three repeats of the stitch pattern using stitch markers, if you want.)
From this point on, you always knit the first 3 stitches, then knit in pattern over the next 39 stitches (13 x 3), and knit the last 3 stitches.
While maintaining the garter stitch border, continue to work rows 2 to 10 of the Lataa chart / stitch pattern (working three repeats on every row) as above. Repeat rows 1-10 of the stitch-pattern 41 more times or till you reach the desired length, ending with row 10 of the stitch pattern / chart (on the wrong side).

To finish:

• Knit 7 rows. Bind off all stitches loosely, knitwise.
• Weave in ends. Block to desired measurements.

Ujaala

Download PDF version of the pattern: Ujaala PDF (original English version)

Download Swedish version of the pattern: Swedish Translation

Download French version of the patternFrench Translation

(Many thanks to Stickaboo and Doliprane for the Swedish and the French translations!)

Link to Ravelry page

This rectangular lace shawl features a 24-row stitch pattern, worked over a multiple of 27 stitches plus 1. The lace is worked on the RS rows only, and all WS rows are purled. In the shawl shown here, and in the directions that follow, the 27 pattern stitches (charted) are repeated five times horizontally to get an approximate width of 27 inches. If you want a narrower stole, you could do three horizontal repeats instead.

IMG_8051 (1024x768)

UjaalaChart

Link to downloadable PDF chart: ujaalachart

Finished Measurements:

• Length: 65”

• Width: 27”

Yarn:

Approximately 320-350 grams or 1320-1380 yards of fingering weight yarn, preferably in wool.

(I used approx. 1330 yards of Lion Brand’s LB 1878 in the Claret colorway. I think the yarn has now been discontinued.)

Gauge (after blocking):

Measured over 4 inches: 21 stitches and 30 rows

Needles:

  •  One 32-inch US size-5 circular needle for knitting (or needle size needed to obtain gauge).
  •  Optional: One 32-inch US size-8 circular needle to cast on and bind off loosely.

Notions:

  •  6 stitch markers (or fewer, depending on your preference)
  •  Tapestry needle to weave in ends
  •  Blocking pins (and wires, if needed)

Directions:

CO 144 stitches loosely (if required, use larger needles for casting on).

Knit 7 rows.

On the next row (WS), knit 4 stitches, purl to the last 4 stitches, knit the last 4 stitches.

From here on, 4 edge stitches on either side of the shawl (8 stitches total) will form the garter border (knit on both sides), and the lace pattern will be worked over the center 136 stitches.

You now start working the lace pattern from the chart.

  • Row 1 (RS) – Knit 4 stitches; *place marker, work 27 stitches of row 1 from the chart*, repeat from * to * four more times (total 5); knit 1, place marker; knit the last 4 stitches (6 markers placed)

(Note that you knit one extra stitch after the last repeat, before working the last 4 knit stitches.)

  • Row 2 and all wrong side rows – knit 4 stitches; purl to the last 4 stitches (as in all WS rows of the chart) slipping markers where needed; knit the last 4 stitches
  • Row 3 (RS) – Knit 4 stitches; *slip marker, work next RS row from the chart*, repeat from * to * four more times; knit 1, slip marker; knit the last 4 stitches
  • Row 4 (WS) – Same as row 2

Repeat these last two rows till you have worked through the entire chart (ending on row 24 of the chart).

As established above, repeat rows 1-24 of the chart 19 more times (total 20).

To end:

Knit 7 rows

Bind off knit-wise (if required, use larger needles to bind off loosely) on the WS of work.

Block to desired measurements.

Weave in ends.

Three-Color Slipped-Stitch Cowl

Download PDF Version here: ThreeColorCowl-Pattern PDF

Link to Ravelry page

This cowl uses three colors of worsted weight yarn. It is worked flat in a six-row, slipped-stitch pattern, and seamed. You knit from the bottom up, changing colors every row, but using only one color across one row.

Casting on loosely is recommended because you start slipping stitches on the very first row after casting on. The lower border and body of the cowl are knit using US size 9 needles (or size needed to get gauge). For the top border, you switch to smaller needles.

The cowl is shaped with decreases on three rows on its lower half. You decrease 8 stitches evenly on rows 13, 19 and 25 – going down from a total of 123 stitches to 99 stitches. [I could not do this completely unobtrusively because of the color changes, but that doesn’t bother me because the slight staggering of stitches isn’t noticeable when I put on the cowl. The pattern includes instructions for decreasing (the way I did) but if you know of another method to achieve cleaner decrease lines, you could use that instead].

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Abbreviations:

  • MC – Main Color
  • CC1 – Contrast Color 1
  • CC2 – Contrast Color 2
  • sl1 – slip 1
  • wyif – with yarn in front
  • wyib – with Yarn in back
  • pm – Place Marker
  • sm – Slip Marker
  • ssk – Slip, Slip, Knit the 2 slipped stitches together
  • k2tog – Knit 2 together

  Finished Dimensions:

  • Circumference – 21.5” (top edge), 26.5” (bottom edge)
  • Height – 8.5” to 9.5” (depending on the number of pattern repeats you choose to do)

Yarn Requirements:

  1. 90-100 yards (40-50 g) of worsted weight yarn in the main color
  2. 70-80 yards (30-40 g) of worsted weight yarn in the first contrast color
  3. 70-80 yards (30-40 g) of worsted weight yarn in the second contrast color

For the samples in the pictures above, I used the Patons Classic Wool and KnitPicks WotA.

  1. In the Green-Red-Blue scarf, green is the main color (MC), red is the first contrast color (CC1), and blue is the second contrast color (CC2).
  2. In the Grey-Blue scarf, dark grey is the main color (MC), light grey is the first contrast color (CC1) and blue is the second contrast color (CC2).

Needles:

  • 24-inch (or longer) US size 9 circular needle (for cowl body)
  • 24-inch (or longer) US size 7 circular needle (for top border)
  • 24-inch (or longer) US size 10 circular needle (for casting on loosely)

Notions:

  • 1 tapestry needle for seaming and weaving in ends
  • 8 stitch markers

Gauge (in main pattern stitch after blocking):

  • Approx. 4.5 stitches and 8 rows per inch

Slipped Stitch Pattern (worked over an odd number of stitches):

  • Row 1 – RS (in CC1) – *sl1, k1, repeat from *, ending with a sl1
  • Row 2 – WS (in CC2) – *p1, sl1, repeat from *, ending with a p1
  • Row 3 – RS (in MC) – knit all stitches
  • Row 4 – WS (in CC1) – *sl1, p1, repeat from *, ending with a sl1
  • Row 5 – RS (in CC2) – *k1, sl1, repeat from *, ending with a k1
  • Row 6 – WS (in MC) – purl all stitches

Repeat rows 1-6 for slipped stitch pattern

  • When slipping stitches, make sure the yarn is always on the wrong side of the work. On the right side of the work, stitches are slipped wyib; on the wrong side of the work, stitches are slipped wyif. All stitches are slipped purlwise.

Cowl Pattern:

Using the main color (MC), loosely cast on 123 stitches.

Lower border:

  • Row 1 – RS (using CC1) – *k1, sl1, repeat from *, ending with a k1
  • Row 2 – WS (using CC2) – knit all stitches
  • Row 3 – RS (using MC) – *k1, sl1, repeat from *, ending with a k1
  • Row 4 – WS (using CC1) – knit all stitches
  • Row 5 – RS (using CC2) – *k1, sl1, repeat from *, ending with a k1
  • Row 6 – WS (using MC) – knit all stitches

These first 6 rows form the lower border of the cowl.

Main body of cowl:

The following rows 7 to 12 form the pattern repeat for the main body of the cowl. The first and last stitches of every row are selvage stitches, and are knit. All the stitches between the first and last stitch are worked in the pattern stitch.

***Please note that on row 12, you need to place markers for decreasing.

  • Row 7- RS (using CC1)– *k1, sl1, repeat from * to the last stitch, end with k1
  • Row 8- WS (using CC2)– k1, *p1, sl1, repeat from * to the last 2 stitches, end with p1, k1
  • Row 9- RS (using MC)– knit all stitches
  • Row 10- WS (using CC1)– k1, *sl1, p1, repeat from * to the last 2 stitches, end with sl1, k1
  • Row 11- RS (using CC2 – k2, *sl1, k1, repeat from * to the last 3 stitches, end  with sl1, k2
  • Row 12- WS (using MC)– k1, purl all stitches to the last stitch, end with k1

Repeat rows 7-12 eight or nine more times, or till you get your desired height for the cowl body, making decreases at the same time. Decrease eight stitches each on rows 13, 19 and 25 (the first rows of the second, third and fourth pattern repeats) evenly. A total of 24 stitches are to be decreased.

This is how I worked the decreases:

***On row 12:- k1, p5, [pm, p15] 3 times, pm, p21, [pm, p15] 3 times, pm, p5, k1

First decrease row – On row 13:- [knit in pattern to the marker, sm, ssk] 4 times; [knit in pattern to 2 stitches before the next marker, k2tog, sm] 4 times, knit in pattern to the end of the row. You now have 115 stitches remaining on the needle.

Knit rows 14-18 in pattern.

Second decrease row – On row 19:- [knit in pattern to the marker, sm, ssk; knit in pattern to the next marker, sm, sl1, ssk] 2 times; [knit in pattern to 3 stitches before the next marker, k2tog, sl1, sm; knit in pattern to 2 stitches before the next marker, k2tog, sm] 2 times, knit in pattern to the end of the row.

You now have 107 stitches remaining on the needle.

Knit rows 20-24 in pattern.

Third decrease row – On row 25:- [Knit in pattern to the marker, SM, ssk] 4 times; [knit in pattern to 2 stitches before the next marker, k2tog, SM] 4 times, knit in pattern to the end of the row.

You now have 99 stitches remaining on the needle.

Knit the next 5 rows of the pattern.

Repeat rows 7 to 12 five or six more times (total 9 or 10 repeats of stitch pattern) or until your cowl is about half an inch shorter than the height you want, ending with the last row of pattern stitch on a WS row.

Top border:

For the top border, switch to size 7 needles (or size 6 if you want the cowl to fit closer around your neck at the top).

  • RS – Using CC1, *k1,sl1, repeat from * to the end of the row, ending with a k1
  • WS – Using CC2, knit all stitches
  • RS – Using MC, *K1, sl1, repeat from * to the end of the row, ending with a k1
  • WS – Using CC1, knit all stitches
  • RS – Using CC2, *k1, sl1, repeat from * to the end of the row, ending with a k1

WS – Using MC, bind off all stitches knitwise.

Block the un-seamed cowl to desired measurements.

Seam the left and right edges of the piece, weave in ends.

Sheesha

(Many thanks to Barbara for pointing out an error in the pattern and correcting it – Nov 26, 2013)
(Thanks SO much, Elizabeth, for pointing out an error in the pattern and correcting it – Feb 22, 2014)

Download PDF version here: Sheesha Pattern PDF

Link to Ravelry page

This scarf combines lace and texture in a simple, grid-like pattern. You just replace the center stitch in every little box of the grid with a yarn over. It’s a six-row repeat worked over a multiple of 4 stitches, plus 1 (not including border stitches).

You will need 350-400 yards or about a hundred grams of fingering weight yarn to get a light scarf.

(You can cast on more stitches if you want a wider scarf or stole, in which case you will need more yarn. Another possibility is to omit the garter rows at the beginning and end, and seam the ends together to make a cowl.)

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Finished dimensions (after blocking):
9” wide, 51” long
(At 51 inches, my scarf is shorter than the ideal scarf length. You might want to work 6-7 more repeats of the 6-row pattern if you want a longer scarf.)

Yarn requirements:
About 350-400 yards or hundred grams of fingering weight yarn. The exact yardage will vary depending on your gauge and how long you knit the scarf.
(I used approximately 350-360 yards of LB 1878 by Lion Brand).

Needles:
A pair of US size 7 or 4.5 mm needles for the knitting.
Optional: A pair of US size 8 / 9 or 5 / 5.5 mm needles for casting on and binding off loosely, if required.

Gauge (In pattern stitch, after blocking):

Measured over 4 inches:  23 stitches and 25 rows
Per inch: 5.75 stitches and 6.25 rows

Stitch Pattern (worked over a multiple of 4 stitches + 1):

  • Row 1 (RS) : knit all stitches
  • Row 2 (WS) : *p1, k3, repeat from *, ending with a p1
  • Row 3 (RS) : *k1, p2tog, yo, p1, repeat from *, ending with a k1
  • Row 4 (WS) : same as row 2
  • Row 5 (RS) : knit all stitches
  • Row 6 (WS) : knit all stitches

Repeat rows 1-6 for pattern.

Scarf Pattern:

Loosely cast on 51 stitches. (I use the long-tail method and a larger needle size to cast on)

  • Rows 1-4:  Knit all stitches (garter stitch)

[From here on, you knit the first 3 and last 3 stitches of every row (maintaining a garter stitch border), and knit in pattern stitch over the center 45 stitches]

  • Row 5 (RS): Knit all stitches
  • Row 6 (WS): k3, *P1, k3, repeat from *, till you have 4 stitches remaining on the needle, p1. Knit the last 3 border stitches.
  • Row 7 (RS): k3, *k1, p2tog, YO, p1, repeat from *, till you have 4 stitches remaining on the needle. Knit the last 4 stitches
  • Row 8 (WS): Same as row 6
  • Row 9 (RS): Knit all stitches
  • Row 10 (WS): Knit all stitches
  • Repeat rows 5-10 fifty-one more times, or till scarf is desired length, ending with the last row of the pattern stitch on a wrong side row.
  • Knit the next 3 rows.
    (These 3 rows, along with the last 2 rows of the pattern stitch, which are knit rows make up the garter stitch border). 

Loosely bind off all stitches (knitwise on WS). Weave in ends.

Block to desired dimensions.

Jhumka

DSC_0254 (1231x1280)  DSC_0249 - Copy (1280x1273) - Copy

Download PDF version o the pattern hereJhumka PDF (to download and print)

Link to Ravelry Page

Jhumka, which means earring (dangler) in Hindi / Urdu, is a jewelry-inspired rectangular shawl featuring a lace pattern worked over a multiple of 22 stitches and 28 rows. You cast on a total of 74 stitches, including 66 main pattern stitches (22 x 3) in the center and 8 border stitches – 4 on either side. The shawl can be made wider or narrower, longer or shorter by adding or leaving out one or more pattern repeats.

The pattern includes both a chart and written instructions.

Yarn
– I used approx. 2 skeins or 550 yards of the Cascade 220 Fingering in the Goldenrod colorway.

Needles
– A pair of US size 6 (4 mm) needles for knitting
– US size 8 (5 mm) needle for casting on loosely (optional)

Notions:
– 2-4 Stitch markers (if using)
– Blocking pins / wires
– Tapestry needle to weave in ends

Gauge (after blocking)
– 20.5 stitches and 27 rows =  4 inches, measured over the Jhumka lace pattern

Finished dimensions
– 14.5 inches wide and 61 inches long

Abbreviations:

  • RS – Right side
  • WS – Wrong side
  • YO – yarn over
  • k2tog – Knit 2 together
  • ssk – slip, slip, knit the 2 slipped stitches together
  • (s2, k1, psso) – slip two stitches together as if to knit; knit 1 stitch; pass slipped stitches over the knit stitch (2 stitches decreased)

Jhumka stitch pattern (worked over multiples of 22 stitches and 28 rows):

 (Note: Rows 1- 14, that make up the diamonds in the pattern, can be further broken down into smaller 11- stitch repeats, but I have not done that and have written all rows as 22-stitch repeats to maintain consistency. Please refer to the chart for more clarity.)

  • Row 1 (RS) – *k3, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k6, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k3*, repeat from * to * for pattern
  • Row 2 (WS) and all WS rows – purl all stitches
  • Row 3 – *k2, k2tog, YO, K3, YO, ssk, k4, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2*, repeat from * to *
  • Row 5 – *k1, (k2tog, YO) twice, k1, (YO, ssk) twice, k2, (k2tog, YO) twice, k1, (YO, ssk) twice, k1*, repeat from * to *
  • Row 7 – *[(k2tog, YO) twice, k3, (YO, ssk) twice] repeat twice *, repeat from * to *
  • Row 9 – *k2, YO, ssk, YO, (s2, k1, psso), YO, k2tog, YO, k4, YO, ssk, YO, (s2, k1, psso), YO, k2tog, YO, k2 *, repeat from * to *
  • Row 11 – *k3, YO, ssk, k1, k2tog, YO, k6, YO, ssk, k1, k2tog, YO, k3*, repeat from * to *
  • Row 13 – *k4, YO, (s2, k1, psso), YO, k8, YO, (s2, k1, psso), YO, k4*, repeat from * to *
  • Row 15 – *k5, (YO, ssk) twice, k4, (k2tog, YO) twice, k5*, repeat from * to *
  • Row 17 – *k6, (YO, ssk) twice, k2, (k2tog, YO) twice, k6*, repeat from * to *
  • Row 19  – *k4, (k2tog, YO) twice, k6, (YO, ssk) twice. k4*, repeat from * to *
  • Row 21 – *k3, (k2tog, YO) twice, k8, (YO, ssk) twice, k3*, repeat from * to *
  • Row 23 – same as row 15
  • Row 25 – same as row 17
  • Row 27 – same as row 19
  • Row 28 (WS) – purl all stitches

Repeat rows 1 to 28 for pattern

 JhumkaChart

Pattern Instructions:

  • Loosely cast on 74 stitches using the larger needle (if using). I used the long-tail method to cast on.
  • Switch to smaller needles. Knit 7 rows.
  • On row 8 (WS), knit 4 stitches, purl 66 stitches, knit the last 4 stitches.

From this point on, the first and last 4 stitches will always be knit to form a garter stitch border, and the Jhumka stitch pattern will be worked over the center 66 stitches (22 x 3).

Stole body:

  • On row 9 (RS), knit 4 stitches; work row 1 of the Jhumka chart /stitch pattern 3 times (placing stitch markers between every repeat if you want); knit the last 4 stitches.
  • On the next row (WS), knit 4 stitches; purl 66; knit the last 4 stitches (all WS rows are worked this way).
  • Continue, as above, to knit rows 3 to 28 of the Jhumka pattern, maintaining a garter stitch border throughout.

Repeat rows 1 to 28 of the Jhumka stitch pattern a total of 14 times.  Then knit rows 1 – 14 of the pattern once more (ending with row 14 – a WS row).

(You can work fewer or more repeats of the pattern to make the stole shorter or longer. Just remember to end with row 14.)

To finish:

  • Knit 7 rows
  • Loosely bind off all stitches knitwise (on the WS).
  • Block to desired measurements. Weave in ends.